Combined seaming and pinking machine



May 1, 1934.

H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 20, 1932 31% la: f

May 3, 1934.; H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed June 20, 1952 .5 Sheets-Sheet 2 k x m Q fin Q. g Q.\ as W W g k m M a m w HU ace ar/12mm.

May I, 1934 H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Filed June 20, 1.932 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 ISnventor H. w H w G May It, 1934. H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING .AND PINKING MACHINE Filed June 20, 1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Ema/WM a 3 ww May 1, 1934. H. F. GRUMAN COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE 1932 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed June 20 ifam zfwm Patented May I, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE COMBINED SEAMING AND PINKING MACHINE Application June 20, 1932, Serial No. 618,383

50 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines especially adapted for performing a seaming and a pinking or trimming operation simultaneously and embodies certain improvements on machines of the character disclosed in my co-pending applications Serial Numbers 473,404 and 522,312 filed August 6, 1930 and March 13, 1931 respectively.

Among its several objects the invention seeks to provide a novel form of drive for imparting to the pinking or trimming blade cutting strokes less in number than the strokes imparted to the seaming needle; novel means for silencing the pinking or trimming mechanism drive; novel means for removing the pinking or trimming blade from operative position; novel means for holding the pinking or trimming blade in yieldable engagement with the ledger blade during actual cutting and for positively releasing said :0 yieldable engagement during non-cutting intervals; and means for overcoming the tendency of trimmings to bed up in the pinking or trimming blade. I

With these and other objects in view which will more fully appear, the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by following the description, the appended claims, and the several views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

In the drawingsz- Figure l is a rear elevation of a sewing machine embodying the invention, parts being broken away and in' section.

Figure 2 is a plan view of the machine, parts being broken away and in section on the plane of the main shaft axis.

Figure 3 is a detail horizontal section taken on the line 33 on Figure 1.-

Figure 4 is a central vertical cross section of the parts shown in-Figure 3, the pinking blade being shown partially lifted in full lines, and lifted wholly to the inoperative position in dotted lines.

Figure 5 is a fragmentary detail section illustrating the gear sleeve shifted into driving relation with the driving collar, the section being taken through the axis of the driving pin.

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 5, the section being taken through the gear sleeve key connection with the mounting sleeve.

Figure '7 is an enlarged left side elevation of the sewing machine, the sewing head cover plate being shown removed.

Figure 8 is a detail front elevation of the machine portions adjacent the parts shown in Figure 4.

Figure 9 is a detail perspective view illustrating the oil drip catch associated with the pinking mechanism.

Figure 10 is a left side elevation of the machine, parts being broken away and in section to better illustrate the pinking blade, its mounting and the driving connections therefor.

Figure 11 is a detail vertical cross section on the line 1l-11 on Figure 2.

Figure 12 is a detail view similar to Figure 11, the section being taken through the axis of the spring pressed pinker drive stop pin.

Figure 13 is an inverted plan view.

Figures 14 and 15 are diagrammatic fragmentary views respectively illustrating the ledger blade yieldably held against the pinking blade during an actual cutting interval, and forced away from contact with the pinking blade during a non-cutting interval.

Figure 16 is a detail perspective view illustrating the pinking or trimming blade and the attached trimmings displacing member.

In the drawings in which like numerals of reference indicate like parts in all of the figures, 5 designates the frame base or work support of a sewing machine embodying my invention and which includes the usual frame standard 6 supporting an overhanging arm 7 and the sewing head 8 mounted on the free end of said arm.

A main rotary shaft 9 is journaled in the overhanging arm, and the needle bar 10 vertically reciprocable in the sewing head and carrying the needle 11, is given a complete reciprocation for each rotation of the shaft 9 by the driving. connections generally designated 12.

The throat plate 13 is mounted on the work support 5 and is slotted as at 14 to accommodate the intermittent 4-motion feed dog 15 to which feed movement is imparted by devices generally designated 16, and to which lift movement is imparted by devices generally designated 17, said devices 16 and 17 having the usual connectionwith the rotary shaft 9 as indicated in dotted lines in Figure 1 of the drawings. A presser foot 18 00- operates with the feed dog in the usual manner and beneath the throat plate is mounted a looper or other complemental stitch forming means 19 driven by connections 20 from the rotary shaft 9.

All of the parts above described will be recognized as conventional, except insofar as they combine with the pinking mechanism to be described hereafter, and the details of construction of these parts form no part of my present invention.

In the practical development of the invention,

taken axis of the sleeve and shaft.

I provide a sleeve 21 which surrounds the rotary shaft 9 and is independently rotatable thereon. A bearing 22 is provided for the sleeve 21 in the overhanging arm 7 and by reference to Figure 2 of the drawings, it will be seen that thus supported the sleeve 21 in turn provides a long sleeve bearing for the main rotary shaft 9.

A driving collar 23 is secured upon the rotary shaft 9 adjacent one end of the sleeve 21 and is equipped with a driving pin 24 projecting toward said sleeve and in parallelism with the common At its other end the sleeve 21 carries an eccentric 25, the purpose of which will become apparent as the description progresses.

A gear sleeve 26 is slidably mounted on the sleeve 21 and is equipped with an annular groove 27, one of the flanges defining said groove being notched as at 28, and is equipped at its end adjacent the driving collar 23 with a toothed or gear portion 29 and a driving ring 30 which is secured at 31 to the end of the gear portion as illustrated in Figures 2, 5 and 6. The ring 30 also includes a socket 32 to receive the driving pin 24 and a key finger 33 which is constantly in driving relation with the sleeve 21 by reason of the projection thereof into the key-way or slot 34 with which said sleeve is provided.

From the above description, it will be apparent that when the gear sleeve 26 is shifted along the sleeve 21 so as .to disengage the pin and socket connection 24 and 32, the main shaft 9 will rotate within the sleeve 21 but will not impart its rotation to the gear sleeve 26. See Figure 2. When, however, the gear sleeve 26 is shifted to the position illustrated in Figures 5 and 6, so as to cause the driving pin 24 to be engaged in the driving ring socket 32, the rotation of the shaft 9 will be imparted to the sleeve 21 and to the gear sleeve 26.

In order to provide for the desired shifting of the gear sleeve 26, I provide a shifter stud 35 which extends eccentrically from a shaft section 36 equipped with a knurled turning head 37 and rotatably mounted in a bearing member 38 secured in the overhanging arm '7 as illustrated in Figures 2, 7, 10 and 11. It will be observed by reference to Figure '7 of the drawings that the member 38 includes a stop pin 39 engageable by limiting stops 40 carried by the head 37 which equipment may be employed for determining the extreme positions of the shiftable gear sleeve 26.

Because of the longitudinal bearing of the shaft 9 within the sleeve 21, friction between these parts might tend to continue the rotation of the sleeve 21 after the driving'connections 24 and 32 had been disconnected, and in order to avoid this I provide a stop pin 41 mounted in the bearing member 38 and urged by a spring as indicated in Figures 2 and 12, into position for engaging one or another of the notches 28 formed in the gear sleeve flange above referred to when the gear sleeve has been shifted to the inoperative position illustrated in Figure 2. The pin 41 thus serves to secure the sleeve 21 and the gear sleeve 26 against rotation. V

I The gear portion 29 of the gear sleeve 26 constantly meshes with a gear 42 secured on a jack shaft ,43 having rotative hearing at 44 in the overhanging arm and sewing head as illustrated in Figures Land 2 of the drawings. The gear portion 29 is equipped with nineteen teeth and the gear 42 is equipped with thirty-eight teeth so that the jack shaft 43 will be rotated once for each two revolutions of the main rotary shaft 9, assumingof course that the gear portion 29 has been shifted into driving relation with the driving collar 23.

At the end opposite the end which carries the gear 42, the jack shaft 43 is equipped with an eccentric 45 which rotates in a block 46 slidable in a guideway'47 formed inthe dovetail slide 48. The slide 48 is slidable vertically in a guideway provided compositely by a groove 49 formed in the sewing head and a guide plate 50 removably and adjustably secured as at 51 on the overhanging arm. See Figures 1, 2 and 10.

The slide 48 is equipped with a stud bearing 52 on which is rockably mounted a bell crank lever 53 to which rocking motion is imparted by a strap link connection 54 with the eccentric 25 secured on the end of the sleeve 21. The strap link 54 projects through a slot 55 in the slide 48.

It will be noted by reference to Figure 10 of the drawings that the eccentric 45 which is mounted on the jack shaft 43 serves to bodily lift and lower the slide 48 and also the bell crank 53 which is rockably supported by the slide, and during operation of the pinking or trimming mechanism and while the bell crank is being bodily lifted and lowered, it is being rocked back and forth on its stud mounting 52 by action of the eccentric 25 and strap link 54.

A packed lubricant pan 56 is supported beneath the stud mounting 52 and bell crank 53 so as to catch any oil which might tend to drip from these connections. During the up and down movements of the parts they also contact with the oil soaked packing in the pan and this equipment therefore tends to insure constant lubrication of these parts.

Attached to the right hand face of the sewing headby screws 57, and positioned thereon by key elements 58 carried thereby and fitting grooves in said face, is a pinking or trimming knife guide block 59 having a vertical guideway 60 in which the knife blade slide generally designated 61 is vertically slidable. The knife slide 61 is U- shaped in horizontal cross-section and is linkconnected as at 62 to the bell crank lever 53 so as to be alternately lifted and lowered as the bell crank is oscillated about its stud mounting 52 as above described. See Figures 3, 4, 8 and 10.

In the channel of the slide 61 is secured the blade carrier 63 which in turn carries at its lower end the pinking or trimming blade generally designated 64. It will be observed by reference to Figures 4 and 16 that the blade 64 is V-shaped and hollow at its lower portion to provide bevelled and upwardly inclined V-shaped cutting edges 65 and depending wall portions 66. The blade 64 is removably secured as at 67 to the carrier 63 and the securing means 67 also serves to secure in position a spring finger 68 which extends into the hollow portion of the blade 64 as illustrated in Figure 16. It has been found that in pinking or trimming some materials, say for example silk or rayon, the trimmings are rather fuzzy and are inclined to bed up in the hollow portion of the blade 64. The finger 68 effectively serves to prevent this bedding up of the trimmings.

The carrier member 63 is equipped with a rigidly secured pin 69 which projects therefrom through a slot '70 formed in the slide member 61. The pin 69 is provided With an end bore in which is mounted a spring '71 and through,which 'bore a cross pin 72 is projected, said cross pin having a flattened portion within the bore which is opposed by the spring when the parts are positioned as illustrated in Figure 4 of the drawings.

A pinking or trimming blade silencing lever 73 is pivotally mounted on the pin 72, being bifurcated to straddle the pin 69, and is equipped with flat edges 74 and oppositely disposed concentric edges '75 as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 8. The concentric edges are receivable in upper and lower securing recesses or sockets '76, 77 formed in the slide member 61. The spring 71, constantly exerting pressure against the cross pin 72, serves to yieldably hold the lever 73 in the neutral position shown in full lines in Fig. 4, or in either of its recess engaging positions shown respectively in full lines in Fig. 1 and in dotted lines in Fig. 4.

During normal operation of the pinking or trimming blade, the lever 73 is in the position illustrated in Figure 8 of the drawings with one set of its concentric edges engaging the lower slide recess '77. When it is desired to elevate the blade 64 out of operative relation with the remaining parts which cooperate therewith in effecting the pinking or trimming, the lever is moved to the position illustrated in full lines in Figure 4 of the drawings thereby presenting the flattened edges '74 to the adjacent face of the slide member 61 and enabling the lever 73 and the attached blade carrier 63 to be moved upwardly from the position illustrated in Figure 8 to the position illustrated in dotted lines in Figure '4 when the lever 73 may be turned down to the dotted line'position with its opposite concentric edges 75 engaged in the upper slide member recess 76. Thus it will be seen that the concentric edge and recess equipments '75, 76 and '77 serve to secure the blade carrier 63 in the operative or inoperative position.

A packed drip catch pan '78 is mounted beneath the slide member 61 as shown in Figures land 8 of the drawings and serves to catch any oil dripping from the slide and its associated parts. The pan is supported by an arm 79 pivoted as at 80 to the sewing head, a spring 81 being coiled about the pivot and extendedinto engagement with the arm as illustrated in Figure 8 so as to yieldably hold the pan in the position illustrated in'Figure 8.

A ledger blade 82 cooperates with the pinking or trimming blade 64 and is slidably mounted as at 83 in the throat plate 13 as illustrated in Figures 1, 3, 14 and 15. The ledger blade is equipped with a triangular shaped opening 84 providing V shaped cutting edges 85 for cooperation with the edges 65 of the movable blade 64 in effecting the pinking or trimming operation. It will be noted by reference to Figure 14 of the drawings that the angle formed by the cutting edges 65 of the blade 64 is slightly more acute than the angle formed by the cutting edges 85 of the ledger blade so that a shearing action is always insured during the cutting operation. The angular relation of the cutting edges is of course somewhat exaggerated in Figure 14 for purposes of illustration.

The ledger blade 82 is equipped with a depending pin 86 which is link connected as at 87 to one end of a close-coiledspring 88, the other end of the spring being connected to a slide 89. The slide 89 is guided as at 90 beneath the work support 5 and is adjustably link-connected as at 91 with the slotted arm 92 of a bell crank lever 93, the other arm of which is strap link connected as at 94 with an eccentric ball 95 projecting from the jack shaft 43. The ball 95 is adjustably mounted as at 96 in a bore concentrically disposed in the end of the jack shaft 43 as indicated in Figure 1 so as to permit adjustment of the relation of the ball to the eccentric 45.

In operation, when it is desired to utilize the pinking or trimming mechanism, the knurled head 37 is employed to shift the gear sleeve 26 into driving relation with the driving collar 23 as shown in Figures 5 and 6 of the drawings. The rotation now imparted to the gear portion 29 and to the sleeve 21 from the rotary shaft 9 will be transmitted through the gear 42 to the jack shaft 43, the jack shaft 43 rotating once to each two rotations of the sleeve 21 and the shaft 9. Rotation of the sleeve 21 will act through the eccentric 25 and strap link 54 to oscillate or rock the bell crank lever 53 once for each rotation of the rotary shaft 9 and, by reason of the link connection 62, during each oscillation of the lever 53 the slide 61 and the pinking or trimming blade 64 carried thereby will be vertically reciprocated.

It is undesirable that the blade 64 should make a cut during each needle reciprocation and this is avoided by provision of the jack shaft 43 and its connected parts. Rotating once for each two revolutions of the eccentric 25, the jack shaft carried eccentric 45 will act to lift and lower the slide 48 and the bell crank lever 53 once during each two rotations of the main shaft 9. Thus while the knife carrying slide 61 is reciprocated once during each rotation of the shaft 9, and therefore once for each needle reciprocation, the rocking center of the stud bearing 52 of the bell crank will be bodily lifted during one reciprocation of said slide and thus lifted will prevent the blade 64 from cooperating with the ledger blade during the lifted interval, and it is only during the interval when the eccentric 45 effects a lowering of the slide 48 and the stud bearing of tne bell crank lever 53 that the cutting edges of the blade 64 are permitted to engage the cutting edges of the ledger blade. Thus, by reason of the provision and arrangement of the. eccentrics 25 and 45 and the 1-to-2 gear ratio of the gears 29 and 42, one effective or cutting reciprocation of the blade 64 is occasioned for each two needle reciprocations. While I have specifically shown a 1-to2 ratio, it will be obvious that other timing arrangements may be employed within the scope of my present invention as particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

It is desirable that the cutting edges of the pinking" or trimming blade 64 and the ledger blade 82 be yieldably held in engagement during the cutting operation so as to assure a clean cut at all times. It has been found, however, that by constantly forcing the edges into engagement much unnecessary wear is occasioned since it is necessary to hold the edges in engagement only during the actual cutting relation thereof. In the structure disclosed in my co-pending applications hereinbefore referred to, the ledger blade cutting edges were constantly held in yieldable engagement with the pinking or trimming blade edges and it was found that the blades wore rapidly and unsatisfactorily.

In my present invention, I embody means for holding the cutting edges in yieldable engagement during actual cutting relation thereof alone, the ledger blade being moved out of contact with the pinking or trimming blade at all other times.

'This mechanism is best shown in Figures 1, 10,

13, 14 and 15. The eccentric ball 95 carried by the jack shaft 43 acts through the connections 86-94 to reciprocate the ledger blade 82 once during each reciprocation of the pinking or trimming blade 64 and these parts are so timed that as the blade 64 descends into engagement with the ledger blade to efiect an actual cut, the slide 89 will be moved to the left, considering the parts as shown in Figures 1, 14 and 15 and, through the spring 88, will yieldably hold the cutting edges 65 and 85 in cutting relation. See Figure 14. The parts are so timed that when the actual engagement necessary in completing a out has been completed the movement of the slide 89 will be reversed as shown in Figure 15 and the coils of the spring 88 will engage and impart a thrust to the ledger blade causing the cutting edges 85 thereof to move away from the trimming or pinking blade and provide a clearance as indicated at 97 in Figure 15.

An upstanding guard member 98 is carried by the front end of the presser foot 18, the latter being of the usual type pivoted at 99, and a guard finger 100 depends from the sewing head and overlaps the guard member 98. at the front of the machine, thus serving to guard against the engagement of the hand of the operator with the pinking or trimming mechanism as well as the needle, and also to prevent the infed material from fouling this mechanism. The overlapped relation of the parts 98 and 100 assures perfect cooperation during the slight movements of which the presser foot partakes.

It should be obvious that by utilizing the adjustable mounting 96, the position of the ball 95 relative to the eccentric 45 and therefore the timing of the period of yieldable engagement of the pinking or trimming blades, can be varied. The adjustable connections afforded by parts 96, 92 and 91 also may be utilized singly or collectively to vary the extent of duration of the period of yieldable engagement between the trimming blades.

It is of course to be understood that the details of structure and arrangements of parts may be variously changed and modified without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle. and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and ablade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, and means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times relieving the yieldable engagement of said cutting walls and edges.

2. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a. vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, said walls forming a resultant toe portion and spaced heel portions, the latter being provided with depending extensions positioned constantly between the divergent end portions of the cutting edges of the ledger blade, and means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times separating said cutting edges and cutting walls.

3. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a main. shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and cooperating therewith, and means for reciprocating the movable blade in synchronism with the needle and for automatically rendering the movable blade ineffective during certain reciprocations of the needle comprising a bell crank connection between the shaft and the movable blade for reciprocating the latter, a slide on which the bell crank is rockably mounted, and means operated by the shaft for bodily raising the slide during certain rotations of said shaft.

4. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a main shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and cooperating therewith, and means for reciprocating the movable blade in synchronism with the needle and for automatically rendering the movable blade ineifective during certain reciprocations of the needle comprising a bell crank connection between the shaft and the movable blade for reciprocating the latter, a slide on which the bell crank is rockably mounted, and means including reduction gearing operated by the shaft'for bodily raising the slide during certain rotations of said shaft.

5. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a main shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and cooperating therewith, and means for reciprocating the movable blade in synchronism with the needle and for automatically rendering the movable blade ineffective during certain reciprocations of the needle comprising a bell crank connection between the shaft and the movable blade for reciprocating the latter, means operated by the shaft for bodily raising the bell crank and the movable blade during certain rotations of said shaft, and means for discontinuing the raising of the bell crank at will without discontinuing the rotation of said shaft.

6. In a combined seaming and pinking machine, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocatory needle; of a trimming mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory trimand including cooperating pinking elements having complementary V-shaped cutting edges, means for reciprocating one element relatively to the other element for causing the cutting edges to move toward and from cutting relation, means to mount one element for movement relatively to the other-for varying frictional contact of the cutting edges, and means cooperating with said element mounting to yieldably hold the cutting edges in frictional engagement during actual cutting engagement and for relieving said frictional engagement while said cutting edges are not in actual cutting engagement.

8. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed' ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means including a mounting for one of said blades enabling movement thereof relatively to the other blade in a direction for causing their cutting edges to frictionally engage in a greater or lesser degree, and means for so moving said blade for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the'movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting engagement of said blades and for moving said movably mounted blade to relieve said yieldable engagement when said blades are not in actual cutting engagement.

.9. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, and means including a spring for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement.

10. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed cutting element having an opening forming converging cutting edges, a cooperating cutting element movable upwardly and dpwnwardly with respect to the horizontally disposed element and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges, and means cooperating with one of said elements for maintaining the cutting edges and the cutting walls in yieldable engagement during actual cutting movements of said movable element and for relieving said yieldable engagement during non-cutting movements of said movable element.

11. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed cutting element having an opening forming converging cutting edges, a cooperating cutting element movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the horizontally disposed element and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges, and means including a close-coiled spring cooperating with one of said elements for at times urging the cutting edges and cutting walls in yieldable engagement and for at times forcing one of said elements away from the other said element to relieve said yieldable engagement.

12. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a cutting blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls forming a resultant toe portion terminating at its lower end in inclined edges bearing shearing relation to the ledger blade cutting edges, said walls including depending heel portions for engaging in the ledger blade opening and maintaining the cutting relation between said cutting walls and the cutting edges, and means to yieldably hold the cutting edges and cutting walls in engagement during actual cutting cooperation of said cutting edges and walls and for at other times forcing said cutting edges and walls apart to relieve said yieldable engagement.

13. In a combined seaming and trimming machine wherein is provided a sewing head carrying an overhanging arm and a main shaft rotatable in the overhanging arm, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and cooperating therewith, means including a reduction gearing connection with the main shaft for reciprocating the movable blade in timed relation with the needle including devices for automatically rendering the movable blade ineffective during certain reciprocations of the needle, and means for rendering said reduction gearing connection operative or inoperative at will.

14. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times relieving the yieldable engagement ofsaid cutting walls and edges, and means for varying the period of said yieldable engagement.

15. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of. the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times relieving the yieldable engagement of said cutting walls and edges, and

means for varying the timing of said yieldable engagement.

16. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during actual cutting movements of the movable blade and for at other times relieving the yieldable engagement of said cutting walls and edges, and means for varying the timing and the duration of said yieldable engagement.

17. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during cutting movements of the movable blade, and means for varying the period of said yieldable engagement.

18. A combined seaming and pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during cutting movements of the movable blade; and means for varying the timing of said yieldable engagement. I

19. A combined seaming-and'pinking machine including a vertically reciprocable needle, and a pinking mechanism disposed at one side of the needle and including a horizontally disposed ledger blade having an opening forming converging cutting edges, and a blade movable upwardly and downwardly with respect to the ledger blade and having converging cutting walls cooperating with the cutting edges of the ledger blade, means for maintaining the cutting edges of the ledger blade and the cutting walls of the movable blade in yieldable engagement with each other during cutting movements of the movable blade, and means for varying the timing and the duration of said yieldable engagement,

20. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination'of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, a rotary driving shaft, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, means including a driven shaft and constantly meshing reduction gears mounted on said shafts for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means for connecting or disconnecting the gears in or from driving relation with said driving shaft at will to impart reciprocation to said trimming blade or to silence operation of said trimming blade and cause said gears to remain stationary.

' 21. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

22. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter, said gears bearing speed reduction relation whereby the number of trimming cuts effected will be less than the number of needle reciprocations.

23. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve including a driving collar on said rotary shaft and a sleeve member slidable along but rotatable with said sleeve, said driving collar and said sleeve member having cooperating engageable and disengageable drive coupling means, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

24. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon and at times forming a rotative bearing for the rotary shaft, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

25. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve including a driving collar on said rotary shaft and a sleeve member slidable along but rotatable with said sleeve, said driving collar and said sleeve member having cooperating engageable and disengage'able drive coupling means, means to slide the sleeve member to engage and disengage said drive coupling means, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reoiprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

26. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the rotary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve including a driving collar on said rotary shaft and a sleeve member slidable along but rotatable with said sleeve, said driving collar and said sleeve member having cooperating engageable and disengageable drive coupling means, means to slide the sleeve member to engage and disengage said drive coupling means,

means for securing the sleeve against rotation when the drive coupling means are disengaged, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

27. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft and a vertically reciprocable needle operated thereby, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a sleeve surrounding the ro. tary shaft and having an eccentric thereon, means for at times imparting rotation from the rotary shaft to the sleeve including a driving collar on said rotary shaft and a sleeve member slidable along but rotatable with said sleeve, said driving collar and said sleeve member having cooperating engageable and disengageable drive coupling means, a jack shaft, constantly meshing gears carried respectively by the rotary and jack shafts, one of said gears being carried by said sleeve member, an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a slide engaged and vertically reciprocated by the jack shaft eccentric, a rockable bell crank carried by the slide, and means connecting the rotary shaft eccentric and the bell crank and the bell crank and the trimming blade for imparting reciprocation to the latter.

28. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof.

29. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof, and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement.

30. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof.

31. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement.

32. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechdering the gear connections inoperative at will.

33. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism incuding a reciprocable needle, and a,trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the period of said yieldable engagement.

34. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the timing of said yieldable engagement.

35. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the timing and the duration of said yieldable engagement.

36. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof, and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement, and including devices for varying the period of said yieldable engagement.

37. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof, and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement, and including devices for varying the timing of said yieldable engagement.

38. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a rotary shaft for imparting reciprocation to the trimming blade, and means actuated by said rotary shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof, and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement,

and including devices for varying the timing and the duration of said yieldable engagement.

39'. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the period of said yieldable engagement.

40. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the timing of said yieldable engagement.

41. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and including devices for varying the timing and the duration of said yieldable engagement.

42. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a trimming mechanism including a slidably mounted ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement, said last named means including an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a bell crank lever having one arm strap link connected to the eccentric, a reciprocable slide link connected to the remaining arm of the bell crank, and a link connection between said slide link and said ledger blade including a close-coiled spring.

43. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechand needle for reciprocating the latter, and a,

trimming mechanism including a slidably mounted ledger blade and a trimming-blade reciprocable relatively tothe ledger blade, means including a jack shaft 'andspeed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the-trimming blade less in numher than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement, said last named'ineans including an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a bell crank lever having one arm strap link connected to the eccentric, a'reciprocable slide link connected to the remaining arm of the bell crank, and a link connection between said slide link and said ledger blade including a closecoiled spring, said eccentric being adjustable to vary the timing of said yieldable engagement.

l ljIn a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft "and needle for reciprocating the latter, and a I yieldable engagement, said last named means intrimming mechanism including a slidably mounted' ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting re-, ciprocations' to the trimming blade less in number than those of the needle, and means actu ated by the jack shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and for at other times relieving said yieldable engagement, said last named means including an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, a bell crank lever having one arm strap link connected to the eccentric, areciprocable slide link connected to the remaining arm of the bell crank, and a link connection between said slide link and said ledger blade including a close coiled spring, said bell crank and .slide link connection being adjustable to vary the period of said yieldable engagement.

45. In a combined seaming and trimming ma-' chine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a rotary shaft, a reciprocable needle and connections between said rotary shaft ed ledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, means including a jack shaft and speed reducing gear connections with the rotary shaft for imparting reciprocations to the trimming blade less innumber than those of the needle, and means actuated by the jack. shaft for forcing said blades into yieldable engagement during the trimming action thereof and forat other times relieving said eluding an eccentric carried by the jack shaft, 2. bell crank lever having'one arm strap link connected to the eccentric, a reciprocable slide link connected to the remaining arm of the bell crank, and a link connection between said slide link and said ledger blade including a, close coiled spring, said eccentric and said bell crank and slide link connections being adjustable to respectively vary the timing and-the period of said yieldable engagement.

46. In acombined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade, a trimmer blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a guide block having a. guideway,

a slide reciprocable 'in the guideway and carrying the trimmer blade, means to reciprocate the 'slide, and means for moving the trimmer blade independently of the slide for renderingit operative or inoperative at will;

1 47. In a combined seaming and trimming machine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade,,a trimmer blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a guide block having a guideway, a slide reciprocable in the guidewayand carrying the trimmer blade, means to reciprocate the slide, and means for moving the trimmer blade independently of the slide for'rendering it operative or inoperative at will, said last named means including an independent carrier for the trimmer blade movable relatively to the slide, said slide having upper and lower securing recesses, and a lever pivoted to the independent carrier and movable into engagement with a selected recess for securing the carrier in effective or inefiective position on the slide.

48. In a combined seaming and trimming machine wherein is provided an overhanging arm and a sewing head, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, and a trimming mechanism including a ledger blade, a trimmer blade reciprocable relatively to said ledger blade, a guide block supported on the sewing head and having a guideway, a slide reciprocable in the guideway and carrying the trim- 5 mer blade, means to reciprocate the slide, an oil drip catch pan disposed beneath the slide, an arm supporting the pan and pivotally connected to the block, and spring means for yieldably holding the pan in position beneath the slide.

49. In a combined seaming andtrimming machine wherein is provided an overhanging arm and a sewing head, the combination of a stitch forming means including a reciprocable needle, work feeding means including a presser foot, a 5 trimming mechanism including a ledger blade and a trimmer blade vertically reciprocable relatively to the ledger blade, and an upstanding guard member carried by the presser foot, a guard finger depending from the sewing head and overlapping the guard'member, said guard member and said guard finger conjointly guarding the advance side of the needle and trimmer blade.

. 50. In a combined seaming and trimming niachine, the combination of a stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocable needle, a rotary shaft, and a trimming mechanism including a fledger blade and a trimming blade reciprocable HORACE F. GRUMAN. 

